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Guangzhou

Chen Clan Ancestral Hall

A Qing clan academy known for Lingnan carving in wood, brick and stone

The carved roof ridges of the Chen Clan Ancestral Hall in Guangzhou

Photo (cropped and resized): Shujianyang, CC BY-SA 4.0

Why it's worth the trip

Stop in the square outside and look up before you go in. Bright glazed clay figures crowd the ridge above the gate, a whole opera cast among little pavilions, as if a troupe had climbed onto the roof. Find the balconies at its centre, where four tiny spectators lean on the rail to watch the show. Below, a painted door god four metres tall guards each of the black doors. Then step through and keep looking. Beams, screens, railings and walls are carved, moulded or cast, and a bare surface is hard to find.

Chen families from 72 counties across Guangdong built it in the 1890s. Their young men lodged here when they came to the provincial capital to sit the imperial exams, wait for a post, or deal with taxes and lawsuits. In effect it was a Guangzhou office for the Chens of every county, and its carvings are full of good wishes for the clan. On the carved screen just inside the gate, a big banana plant stands for a large and thriving household, and a hen leading her chicks for many descendants. At each end of the central hall's roof, a whiskered fish-dragon flicks its tail at the sky, the old sign for coming top in the exams.

Come for the building more than the collection. The Guangdong Folk Art Museum fills the side halls with ceramics, embroidery and carving, but the finest craft here is on the walls and roofs. Give most of your time to the three great halls down the middle. Then wander the side corridors and the narrow lanes between the buildings, where the grey brick is carved just as finely. In a demonstration hall, craftspeople carve olive stones or paint Canton porcelain, and you can stop and watch.

Don't miss

  • The great ridge from the courtyard

    Back away across the courtyard until the whole ridge on the central hall fits in view. It runs 27 metres and carries more than 200 clay figures. Scene follows scene, immortals at a birthday feast and officials winning promotion, like a picture story in three dimensions. It was fired in the Shiwan kilns of nearby Foshan.

  • Up close to the brick pictures

    Six big panels of grey brick flank the entrance. One tells the folk tale of the Song general Liu Qing taming a wild horse sent by a rival kingdom, with more than 40 figures in a single scene. Stand close: hair, armour and leaves are cut in lines as fine as thread.

  • Light through the carved screens

    The central hall is still set out as it was when the clan met here. At the back stands a row of tall wooden screens, carved on both faces with scenes from old tales such as the Three Kingdoms. The carving goes right through, so light falls between the figures. Outside, the stone railings round the terrace are set with cast-iron panels, a craft from Western gardens worked into Chinese patterns.

Fitting it in

Time to give it
About two hours covers the three great halls, the courtyards and the side corridors. Add up to an hour if the museum's galleries draw you in.
When to go
A weekday morning is the calmest and coolest time in the open courtyards. Weekends and public holidays are much busier, and on big public holidays numbers can be capped. October to December is Guangzhou's most comfortable season. In the wet months, roughly April to September, covered corridors link the halls, so a shower does little harm.
Pair it with
Yongqingfang, the restored lanes of Xiguan, the old district west of the city walls, is about 25 minutes' walk to the south-west. Shamian is about 20 minutes beyond it on foot, or two stops on Metro Line 1 from Chen Clan Academy to Huangsha. Come here first while the courtyards are cool, then wander south through the lanes for lunch and reach the island late in the afternoon.
Who can skip it
If old buildings leave you cold, skip it and give the morning to the river or to morning tea. Foshan's Ancestral Temple carries an even longer ridge of Shiwan figures on its roof. If your trip already includes it, one of the two is enough unless carving is your passion.

Questions travellers ask

Is the Chen Clan Ancestral Hall worth visiting?

Yes, if you have any interest in craft or old buildings. Chen families from 72 Guangdong counties built it in the 1890s. Decoration covers it, from roof ridges crowded with clay figures to brick scenes cut in lines as fine as thread. Two hours is enough, and it stands right by a metro station in the old west of the city.

How long do you need at the Chen Clan Ancestral Hall?

About two hours for the three great halls, the courtyards and the side corridors, plus up to an hour if the folk-art galleries draw you in. Yongqingfang is about 25 minutes away on foot and Shamian two stops by metro. It works as a half-day or as the start of a full day in old Guangzhou.

Do I need to book the Chen Clan Ancestral Hall?

Yes, plan to. Tickets are booked through the museum's official WeChat account, and visitors scan their ID at the gate, so bring the passport you booked with. On big public holidays numbers can be capped and tickets can run short. The rules change from time to time, and we can check them for your date and book for you.

What is the best time to visit the Chen Clan Ancestral Hall?

A weekday morning, ideally between October and December. Mornings are cooler in the open courtyards and calmer than weekends or public holidays. In the wet season, roughly April to September, covered corridors link the halls, so rain does little harm to a visit.

Why is it also called the Chen Clan Academy?

Because it was built as a lodge and study hall for young Chen men who came to Guangzhou for the imperial exams. The board over the gate still reads Chen Clan Academy. After the exams were abolished it became a school. Today it houses the Guangdong Folk Art Museum, its third name on signs and maps.

Sources: Guangdong Folk Arts Museum (Chen Clan Academy) official siteGuangzhou Municipal Bureau of Culture, Radio, Television and Tourism: 陈家祠 (Chen Clan Ancestral Hall)Liwan District government: 陈家祠 (Chen Clan Ancestral Hall)China Daily: inside the Guangdong Folk Art Museum, with its senior guide (2020)China News Service (People's Daily Overseas Edition): the seven crafts of the Chen Clan Ancestral Hall (2011)

Photo (cropped and resized): Shamian Island (xiquinhosilva, CC BY 2.0)

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